Microdermabrasion Machines

It's important to first review what microdermabrasion is intended to do in general and how machines achieve this.

Of the effects microdermabrasion machines have on the skin, two have the most significance: exfoliation and vacuuming. It is important to translate exfoliation and vacuum effects into some criteria for evaluating microdermabrasion machines. Estheticians should not perceive vacuum pressure alone to be the determinant of how effective or strong a machine is or how well it is exfoliating, because this is not always the case. There are machines that have gentle vacuum levels but exfoliate as well as stronger vacuuming machines. In any case, all treatments should not be delivered in the same way every time.

Exfoliation. Microdermabrasion, through the use of a machine, is first and foremost an exfoliation process. As with many exfoliation processes, estheticians are able to achieve a wide range of results, from very mild to fairly aggressive exfoliation. Estheticians must decide what results they wish to achieve for any given client. Exfoliation is achieved primarily through the abrasive action of the crystals to slough off the upper portion of the skin. It is a non-invasive action because the esthetician does not go beyond the epidermis. The amount of exfoliation for each client depends on the conditions being treated and the individual clients; treatment considerations are better addressed separately. With one treatment, clients can see an improvement in their skin; however, a series of treatments often is required to affect clients' desired skin changes.

Some manufacturers will discuss the technical aspects of how their microdermabrasion machines achieve more effective exfoliation. How this is achieved technically can be confusing. Training is most crucial to the success of any system used. With the proper education and licensing in skin care, particularly for using systems such as a microdermabrasion machine, estheticians can achieve the level of treatment desired by clients. (Editor's note: For more information on state-by-state licensing requirements, see "Legal: Microdermabrasion Update" by Laura 1. Root in the June 2001 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.)

Vacuuming. Even though vacuuming is necessary to move crystals through the system, there are additional specific effects vacuuming has on the skin. How much vacuum pressure is necessary? How much is too much? The answer is dependent partially on what estheticians want to achieve and how adept they are in using any microdermabrasion machine. The other portion is a function of the effects of vacuum pressure both good and bad.

The good. Some vacuum pressure will stimulate the skin. This increases blood flow and oxygen to the skin. The result can be healthier and more vibrant-looking skin. Some have attributed vacuum pressure to the stimulation of the collagen layer as well as the movement of subcutaneous fluids--lymphatic drainage. The extent that this can occur is nearly impossible to demonstrate to a client.

The bad. Vacuum pressure--even without crystal flow--can create some negative effects, including: Appearance of punctuates, a collection of blood just below the skin's surface, similar to a hickey; breaking the skin and drawing blood; Unwanted melanin production; or stimulation of latent conditions such as herpes, unnecessary client discomfort.

Knowing what effects vacuum pressure can have, estheticians must decide what is appropriate for them and their clientele. It is beneficial, however, to have a machine with vacuum pressure that can be altered to yield low vacuum levels as well as higher ones. Provided that a machine is exfoliating, lower vacuum pressures provide greater safety against potentially undesirable results.

More Information

Microdermabrasion Cost

Microdermabrasion FAQ

Microdermabrasion Equipment